Chapter 16 Chapter Sixteen: The Secret of the Hamraid Clothes

Friends who have watched the 31st and 32nd episodes of "The Legend of Zhen Huan in the Harem" must have noticed the following plot: Mausoleum was once favored, very popular, and was even bestowed with a golden robe. Here, there is a question: Is the golden-haired garment a human garment? "Golden Clothes" was originally a popular song in the middle Tang Dynasty.It is said that during Yuanhe (806-820) Zhenhai Jiedu envoy Li Qi loved this word so much that he often ordered his concubine Du Qiuniang to sing it at the banquet (see Du Mu's "Poems of Du Qiuniang" and his own notes).The author of the lyrics is no longer available.Some anthologies of Tang poetry are titled by Du Qiuniang or by Li Qi, which is incorrect. "Golden Thread Clothes": "I advise you not to cherish golden thread clothes. I advise you not to cherish golden thread clothes. I advise you to cherish when you are young. The flowers can be broken and the branches will be broken. Don't wait for no flowers to break the branches." Golden thread clothes: clothes decorated with gold thread, metaphor Prosperity and wealth.Cherish it: Cherish it.Can: Yes, can.Naosu: Although.Straight: direct, straightforward.Don't wait: Don't wait.Rhyme translation: I advise you not to cherish the luxurious gold thread clothes, but I advise you to cherish your youth.When the flowers are blooming and it is appropriate to fold them, you should hurry up and fold them. Don't wait until the flowers wither and just fold an empty branch.

"China has the beauty of clothing, which is called Hua; and the greatness of etiquette, so it is called Xia." The Chinese nation is a nation that pays attention to clothing. Ancient clothing is not only beautiful and pleasing to the eye, but also can show identity, distinguish between superior and inferior, and conform to etiquette.Behind the costumes is a rich and unique traditional cultural heritage, which has a lot to say. The source of Qing Dynasty court costumes, except for some small items such as purses, were handmade by concubines and maids in their spare time, and most of the rest were undertaken by Jiangnan Sanzhi.The Three Weaving Bureaus, namely Jiangning, Suzhou and Hangzhou Weaving Bureaus, are the main raw material producing areas and clothing manufacturing offices for court costumes, and were established during the Shunzhi period.Each of the three weaving places has its own strengths: Jiangning wins in flower weaving, Suzhou is good at Kesi, and Hangzhou is good at embroidery.Jiangning Weaving mainly undertakes the production of big red python satin, big red satin horses, and golden tassels, and specializes in weaving all kinds of silk, various colors of driving clothes, silk and thread, etc.Most of the brocades used in the palace are made in Nanjing. Because the brocades are beautiful like clouds, they are called "cloud brocades".Among the various varieties of brocade, Zhuanghua is a heavy weft fabric with shuttle digging as the main means of displaying flowers. Its color can be as high as thirty or forty colors, and it can be matched freely regardless of the warp and weft directions. It is also decorated with a lot of gold and silver threads. The brocade surface achieves the effect of different colors and golden colors, which is the representative of the highest achievement of my country's brocade weaving technology.Kesi and embroidery used in the palace are mostly produced in Suzhou, and Suzhou Weaving often undertakes various embroidery work and purchases of various cloth.Its silk fabrics are divided into two categories: "upper use" (specially used by the emperor) and official use (rewarded by princes and officials).The Hangzhou Weaving Bureau mainly weaves silk, damask, hang fine, silk threads of various colors, and painted silk of different lengths. The quality is good, so it has the characteristics of lightness and softness.

The development of women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty was different between Han and Manchu.During the Kangxi and Yongzheng periods, women of the Han nationality still retained the style of the Ming Dynasty, and small-sleeved gowns and long skirts were fashionable; Go to skirts and trousers, lace and teeth rolling on the clothes, most of the expensive clothes are spent on these.Manchu women wear "flag dresses", comb flag buns (commonly known as two heads), and wear "flowerpot bottom" flag shoes.As for the so-called cheongsam handed down from later generations, it has been mainly used in the court and royal family for a long time.In the late Qing Dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by noble ladies of the Han nationality.

There are several different forms of cheongsam or short skirt, such as pipa skirt, big skirt and double skirt.The matching skirt or trousers are decorated with all-over prints, embroidery and pleats.The edges of the skirt, collar and sleeves are all decorated with inlays, rolling, embroidery, etc. According to historical records, the cost of inlaying and rolling is even higher. A shirt and a skirt are twice as much inlaid, the body is six out of ten, and the inlays are four out of ten. The clothes are only six parts silk, which is strange when it is new, and it is difficult to remove it after it changes color.In addition, sheepskin is made into a jacket and worn backwards. The leather is also inlaid and rolled, and there are beards and cloud shoulders. All winter and summer clothes can be processed.In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women and men dressed similarly, the only difference being that the ears were worn in a bun, and unmarried women had their braids hanging down.Manchu women don't have their feet bound and don't wear skirts. The waistcoat outside the garment is flush with the shirt, and there is a small garment inside the gown, which is equivalent to the apron of Han women. The garment outside the garment is also called "oolong".The flag was installed in the Qing Dynasty. In addition to the above-mentioned common characteristics, the combination characteristics of different periods are still relatively distinct.

During the reign of Emperor Kangxi: Brown gowns with black collars and gold patterns or pieces of gold patterns were popular among aristocratic women, plus light green gowns with black borders and gold embroidered patterns.There are ornaments in front of the lapel, a big bun on the head, and a turban style.The maids wear green robes with black collars, gold buttons, emerald flowers on their heads, and pearl pendants hanging down their shoulders. During the Qianlong period: Women wore light yellow shirts with pink trims and black vests with big clouds.The skirt or trouser legs are trimmed with black embroidered railings, and the feet are worn with red bow shoes.There are also red clothes, sleeves trimmed with white satin and wide railings, and red embroidered shoes on the feet.There are also those who wear collarless royal blue clothes inlaid with black trim, with a string of incense cards hanging on the front of the skirt, and small items such as time watches, toothpicks, and incense strings hanging on the buttons.There are also orange belts on the outside of the clothes, hanging on both sides of the waist and hips to match the shirt, and the ends of the belts are embroidered.Some wear white gauze undershirts, black trousers with red belts, red bellybands, and tongues on the heels of their shoes.

Jade clothes are also called "jade boxes" and "jade scorpions".The origin of jade clothes can be traced back to the "jade mask" and "jade clothes" in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty.The emperors and nobles of the Han Dynasty were used as funeral clothes after their death.Due to the different grades, jade clothes can be divided into gold thread (emperor level), silver thread (princess king stage) and copper thread (princess stage).By the time of the Three Kingdoms, Cao Pi issued an edict to ban jade clothing, which has been popular for four hundred years.So far, more than 20 pieces of jade garments have been discovered across the country. The two jade garments unearthed from the tombs of Liu Sheng, King Jing of Zhongshan, and his wife Dou Wan are the earliest and most exquisitely crafted among them.

In 1968, the two sets of golden jade clothes unearthed from the Han Tomb in Mancheng were well preserved and shaped like a human body. The fine processing shows the superb craftsmanship level at that time.Jade clothes with golden thread are the highest-standard funeral clothes in the Han Dynasty, and they appeared roughly in the Wenjing period of the Western Han Dynasty.According to the "Xijing Magazine", the emperors of the Han Dynasty were buried in "Jade Caskets with Pearls and Jackets", which were shaped like armor and connected with gold wires.This kind of jade box is what people usually call the golden jade clothes.At that time, people were very superstitious that jade could keep the bones immortal, and even regarded jade as a noble ritual vessel and a symbol of status.

Xie Genrong, the former legal person of Beijing Yanshan Huaersen Industrial Group, handed over the jade pieces he kept to Niu Fuzhong, the director of Beijing Zhongboya Cultural Relics Appraisal Center, and he strung them into jade clothes. The price of imitation jade clothes is only 10,000 yuan per piece.Afterwards, Niu Fuzhong found five experts including Wang Wenxiang (former secretary-general of China Collectors Association), Yang Boda (former vice president of the Palace Museum), and Yang Fuxu (former director and professor of Gem Appraisal Center of Peking University). "Write a text description, saying that its valuation is 2.4 billion yuan.This text description became the certificate for Xie Genrong to apply for a pledge loan from the bank.The holder used this to defraud more than 660 million yuan in loans from five branches of Beijing Construction Bank.As soon as the incident happened, there was an uproar from all walks of life.